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On June 22, 2011, PCARRD and PCAMRD was consolidated and is now known as the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Aquatic, and Natural Resources Research and Development or PCAARRD. WELCOME! This forum is venue for the dynamic exchange of knowledge and experience among experts, farmers, and industry practitioners in the agriculture, aquatic and natural resources (AANR) sectors. As our clients, we value your comments and inquiries. Reminder: Please use the SEARCH FUNCTION first before creating a new topic.
Joprans wrote: Hi guys its been a very long time since i was here. I had to stop bec.
Of my friend yolanda! Anyways babalik na din ako sa negosyong eto. Parang restart / rebuild ulit. Ask ko lang do u still ferment the new formula na ginagawa mo b4 pakain sa pig?
I mean after mo ma mix yung 300kg total materials u still need to ferment d mixture for 24hr para maging liquid ryt? Sa fasting every sunday po di ba 1 day feeding lang po kayu on monday or d next day do u do d regular 3pm fresh greens then 4 pm ang meal? Or nag bibigay pa din kayu nang greens sa umaga? Ang dami ko nang babasahin ulit. Hehehe Joprans. After ma-mix yong 300 kilos total materials ay lagay uli sa sako or drums at stock sa lugar na hindi naaarawan. Parang new mixed feeds na yon, kaya kelangan ferment uli for minimum 12 hours or maximum 24 hours para maging liquid feed uli bago ipakain sa mga baboy.
During this time ay hinahalo na rin namin ang iba-ibang solids ng FPJ, FFJ, FAA, OHN at LABS na nilagay namin sa freezer matapos ihiwalay sa concentrated liquid nila. Ang solida ay pandagdag sa volume ng fermented feeds. Testing pa lang namin ang fasting every Sunday kaya hindi pa final yon.
The next day Monday ay regular once a day feeding pa rin at sa hapon na ang merienda na ng mga fresh green leaves. Ok tnx po kuyang d. Joprans wrote: Hi guys its been a very long time since i was here. I had to stop bec. Of my friend yolanda!
Anyways babalik na din ako sa negosyong eto. Parang restart / rebuild ulit. Ask ko lang do u still ferment the new formula na ginagawa mo b4 pakain sa pig? I mean after mo ma mix yung 300kg total materials u still need to ferment d mixture for 24hr para maging liquid ryt? Sa fasting every sunday po di ba 1 day feeding lang po kayu on monday or d next day do u do d regular 3pm fresh greens then 4 pm ang meal? Or nag bibigay pa din kayu nang greens sa umaga? Ang dami ko nang babasahin ulit.
Hehehe Joprans. After ma-mix yong 300 kilos total materials ay lagay uli sa sako or drums at stock sa lugar na hindi naaarawan. Parang new mixed feeds na yon, kaya kelangan ferment uli for minimum 12 hours or maximum 24 hours para maging liquid feed uli bago ipakain sa mga baboy. During this time ay hinahalo na rin namin ang iba-ibang solids ng FPJ, FFJ, FAA, OHN at LABS na nilagay namin sa freezer matapos ihiwalay sa concentrated liquid nila. Ang solida ay pandagdag sa volume ng fermented feeds. Testing pa lang namin ang fasting every Sunday kaya hindi pa final yon.
The next day Monday ay regular once a day feeding pa rin at sa hapon na ang merienda na ng mga fresh green leaves. Ok tnx po kuyang d. Joprans, Mukhang decided ka na yatang mag timpla na rin ng feedspro feeds per Sir Andry Lim formulary, ah. Matrabaho pag walang mixer at susundin ang recommends ni Sir Andry na gumamit lang ng spade (pala sa construction). Kaya bumili ako ng brand new cement mixer. Next maginvest din ako sa multi-purpose shredder ng Agriventa. P75K daw plus shipping sabi ni tj.
Marami ka na ba tanim? Malaking bagay ang mga bunga ng Palm Oil Tree.
Sa isang puno lang ay ang dami ng bungang naaani. Arjay wrote: Kuyang Tony et al, Napulot ko habang nad su surfing sa net. Makabuluhan kaya ito? How to Increase the Weight of a Pig Increasing the weight of a pig can be a simple matter of feeding it the right combination of foodstuffs. Determine what percentage of the meal should be protein. A young pig of 8 weeks should be given feed with 17-18% protein. Older pigs should get around 15%.
Determine what type of protein source(s) you're going to use. Tankage and meat scraps are one good source (although some people fear spread of disease when using meat scraps, since human illnesses can be given to pigs through direct contact; i.e. Eating the meat), as is soybean oil meal. For best results, give the pigs a mix of both. Determine what types of grain you're going to use. No matter what type of grains you use, 50% of it should be yellow corn. Barley, wheat, and sorghum can also be used, but take care with the sorghum.
Do not use the bird-proof sorghums because they have reduced palatability. Also, yellow or white sorghum is better than red. If you make the feed yourself, grind the grain (but not too finely) and mix with the protein source(s) for a complete meal.
If you buy the feed, buy ground meal for a large number of pigs or pellets or cubes for a smaller number of pigs. Determine how chubby you want your pig. If it's more important that your pig gain weight quickly, then use the 'free choice' method to feed your pig. Let the food out and let them eat all they want. If it's more important that your pig is trim, feed your pig about 90% of their appetite.
This will take a little longer, but it will give you a trimmer pig. Mix 1/4 cup corn or vegetable oil with two eggs and add to the entire mixture. Kailangan pala may itlog. Arjay, Well, even sa mga aso, recommends din namin ang itlog but only in moderation. Wag masyadong sobra. Yong imported ko na pure breed pitbull that has to undergo quarantine, ay greenhorn pa lang ako non (circa 1980s) kaya dami kong binigay na itlog dahil gustong gusto naman. Muntik ng mamatay sa quarantine ang $5,000 investment ko!!!
He he he Kaya ngayon ay maingat na ako. Pag may nakita ako sa internet or kung may gusto akong testingin, ay sa isa baboy ko muna ginagawa ang pagtesting hanggat hindi pa sigurado sa magiging epekto. At gradually bago ko implement sa karamihan pag maganda ang resulta. Arnoldgem wrote: mga kuyang gudevng po!
Tanong ko lng kung may nakasubok naba sa inyo o may kulungan na conventional type na may pool sa loob. Hindi po ba mangangamoy masyado?
Kc pag may pool doon sila umiihi at popo. Balak ko kasing baguhin ang dbs area ko gawin ko nalang pool. May problema kc ako sa dbs ko laging basa sa ihi d na masyado natutuyo tambak lng ako ng tambak ng bagong ipa mga after 1 week basa na naman. Inuubo na kc alaga ko binibigyan ko naman ng gamot mawawala ang ubo pero after mga ilang days may ubo na naman. Maliit lng kc ang dbs area ko nasa 1.5mtrs wide at 3mtrs long.
Ganito kc ginawa ko sa dbs ko pina ka ilalim tinambakan ko ng mga sanga ng niyong,sanga ng kahoy,damo,katawan ng saging at dahon tapos second layer mix lupa at uling na nasa 6' ang kapal at pina ka ibabaw ay ipa nasa 12' ang kapal. May mali ba sa ginawa ko mga kuya? Napapansin ko kc sa alaga ko sungkal sila ng sungkal sa dbs tapos kinakain nila baka doon nang galing ubo nila? Ok naman sila masisigla yun nga lng may ubo. Arnold, Gaano kalalim ang hukay mo sa dbs area? Naarawan ba ang loob ng dbs area?
Pag walang 1 meter ang lalim ng hukay at hindi napapasok ng araw ang dbs area ay baka makaproblema ang dbs area mo. Pag pinalitan mo ng pool ang dbs area ay baka lalong magkaproblema ang pig pen mo. Best na haloan mo ng pics ang narrative description sa pig pen mo. Sigurado ka na tama lang sa 1.5 sq.
Meters per pig ang stocking capacity mo? Sa 1.5 meter x 3 meters na dbs area (hindi ko alam ang total sq. Meters laki ng buong pen) ay 3 baboy lang dapat ang stocking capacity ng pig pen mo.
Sana nagpost ka ng pics habang ginagawa ang dbs na kulungan mo para nakikita ng mga members at makapagbigay sila ng comments. Mahirap pag walang pics.
Sir tony gudpm po! Eto po ang pig pen ko kung saan nakatayo. Nasa ground floor po ng bahay, bakante kc hindi nagagamit kaya nilagyan ko mona ng odorless pigpen. Tinawanan nga ako ng kapitbahay ko dahil ganito daw design ng pigpen ko sabi ko sa kanila odorless at tipid sa tubig at trabaho. Sa umaga hindi na sisikatan ng araw sa bandang hapon lang pumapasok ang araw pero hindi boong dbs na aarawan dahil maraming kahoy nakaharang (sa kabilang bakod napo to kapit bahay namin). Eto naman ang loob ng pigpen (3x4 mtrs) kasama na dyan ang dbs area (1.5mtrs wide).
Mapapansin na itim na ang ipa at medyo basa hindi sila natutulog dito sa dbs dahil mainit sa cemento sila natutulog. 1mtr deep din ang lalim hindi ko nga lang na picturan bago ko tinambakan ng mga dbs materials.
Kaya balak kung baguhin gawin ko nalng pool yan ang dbs (1mtrs wide ang pool). Iniisip ko kc pag nilagyan ko ng pool kailangan kung magpagawa ng septic tank sa ngayon kc wala pa akong septic tank dahil nka dbs at hugas sa labangan lang na tubig ang lumalabas sa drainage ko papunta sa creek. Sir tony tama po ba ang mga dbs materials na ginamit ko? Balak ko rin kasing hukayin at tanggalin yung pinakababa (first layer) at palitan ko nlng ng mix saw dust at ipa. Arnold, Natatandaan na kita. Kung sa akin ang pig pen mo ay ito ang aking gagawin. Gigibain ko ang paligid na cmu walls ng pig pens up to the square openings on the walls specially don sa lugar na sinisikatan ng araw sa umaga at sa hapon.
Ititira ko lang ang mga concrete na poste kung may dinadala itong bigat mula sa itaas. Dahil sa gigibain ang cmu walls, ay extended lahat pababa ang rebars na magsisilbing pangkulong sa mga baboy para hindi makalabas. Magprovide na lang ng pinto para pasukan at labasan ng baboy. Double purpose ang paggiba ng cmu walls. Una para makapasok ang sikat ng araw sa umaga at hapon lalo na ang sa umaga. Second ay para lusutan din ang simoy ng fresh air sa paligid lalo na kung araw na sobra ang init ang ng araw.
Sana ang media agua ng buong bahay ay sapat para hindi inaabot ng ulan ang loob ng pig pen. Kahit walang pool ay puede pa rin.
Tuwing maglilinis ng concrete flooring ay hindi naman maiwasan hindi mabasa ang mga baboy. Nakikipaglaro kasi sa water hose. Puede rin maglagay ng shower sa isang parte ng concrete floor na mano mano na puedeng buksan pag mainit masyado ang panahon. Baka ikaw lang ang may pig pen senyo na may shower pa ang baboy.
Since 1 meter ang lalim ng hukay ng DBS area, ay lagyan mo ng slanting ang pinakailalim ng hukay na an direksion ay papunta sa creek. Tapos ang first layer sa pinakailalim ng hukay ay latagan ng mga bato bato na tulad sa septic tank. Second layer to the bato bato ay mixture ng gravel and sand. 3rd layer ay mga dinurog na bunot (good water absorption qualities). 4th layer ay mixture ng good soil at charcoal (wood or coconut husk ay OK. Good adsorption qualities ang charcoal).
Note: iba ang adsorption sa absorption. Look up in the dictionary.
5th layer sa pinakaibabaw ay purong IPA na. Sprinkler with 2 kilos salt and spray with OHN made from LUYA and sili labuyo to the DBS area to disinfect sa mga hanip sa IPA just in case meron hanip ang makuha mong IPA. During a period of time ay lulundo ang IPA area sa kasusungkal ng mga baboy. Dagdag na lang ng dagdag ng IPA specially don sa sinungkalan ng baboy at don sa lugar na pinili ng mga baboy na iniihan/taehan nila.
Puedeng turuan ang baboy kung saan sila dapat tumae. Sa area na 3 x 4 square meters ng pig pen mo ay puede ang 6-7 na baboy @ 2 square meter per baboy. Maginhawa na sila dian. Magandang practisan na sa pagalaga ng baboy yang DBS P.I.G.S.
Mo sa ilalim ng bahay. Very convenient pa dahil pati hugas bigas araw araw ay tapon na lang ng tapon sa dbs area to maintain the decomposition of the DBS area in making good bacteria. Alan211 wrote: MGA KUYANG KUMUSTA PO. MAYROON PO AKONG NA DOWNLOAD NA MANUAL PO SWINE MANAGEMENT FROM PIC AND UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI.MAGANDA PO COMPLETO.KUNG SINO PO MAY GUSTO KINDLY POST YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS. MARAMING SALAMAT PO.
Kuyang, Baka po pwede makahingi ng copya. [email protected] maraming salamat po sa inyong lahat. Kuyang Harold, Pwede mo i direct download ito yung link. NeMgmt.pdf 2.Draft.pdf 3. Small.pdf 4.
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Gement.pdf 5. Gement.pdf 7. Iglets.pdf Sana makatulong. Alan211 wrote: MGA KUYANG KUMUSTA PO.
MAYROON PO AKONG NA DOWNLOAD NA MANUAL PO SWINE MANAGEMENT FROM PIC AND UNIVERSITY OF HAWAI.MAGANDA PO COMPLETO.KUNG SINO PO MAY GUSTO KINDLY POST YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS. MARAMING SALAMAT PO. Kuyang, Baka po pwede makahingi ng copya. [email protected] maraming salamat po sa inyong lahat. Kuyang Harold, Pwede mo i direct download ito yung link. NeMgmt.pdf 2.Draft.pdf 3. Small.pdf 4.
Gement.pdf 5. Gement.pdf 7. Iglets.pdf Sana makatulong. Kuyang Alan, salamat po ng marami. Arjay wrote: Kuyang Tony et al, Pulot lang FEEDING FOR GROWERS Good things for protein are: Fishmeal, Alfalfa Soya yucca leaves Camote(sweet potatoe leaves) porroto de palo.( pigeon peas) For carbohydrates: Bananas Corn, yucca, papas chinas, With what you have, this is a good mix for growers 10 percent fishmeal, 15 percent breadmix 30 percent yucca 10 percent dried yucca leaves 20 percent corn 15 percent greens(plantain leaves, grass, alfalfa, chileno, ) Precautions: If protein is not enough, increase the fishmeal and the dried yucca leaves by 2% to 5% each.
Do not give more then 40 or 50% yuca. Be careful that the old bread is not moldy. Arjay, Pag establish ka na, madaling testingin ito sa isang grupo ng 2 fatteners. Ang 1 head ay pantesting. Ang 1 other head ay to be fed your regular feeds. Compare the result of the 2 heads in terms of growth by kilos and detailed cost of feeds consumed.
If I have space in my farm, I do the testing also. If the growth of the 2 pigs are the same and there is substantial savings in feed cost, maybe this method is worth pursuing.
Sharing the 5 dbs farrowing pens that was recently completed. Fully operational na po itong 5 farrowing pens pero wala pang laman na inahin. To conserve on space para magamit na nursery, ang lahat ng farrowing pens ay removable (tangal turnilyo at taas/baba lang) at removable din ang rebars na dividers. Pag kapos sa P.I.G.S. Ay puedeng pagsamahin an 2 dbs farrowing pens na magkakaroon ng enclosed DBS pen na ang total area ay 12 feet length x 8 feet wide or 96 square feet or 29 square meters. Good for 19-20 piglets capacity up to 60 days.
Halos doble po sa 1 meter ang lalim ng hukay ng DBS area sa pic kaya parang heavy duty na ang DBS area na ang pinakaibabaw ay mga IPA. Just look at the next pic below na mahigit 1 meter na ang lalim na tatambakan pa ng DBS materials. Bago nagretoke para taasan pa ng 2 blocks high ang pen ng inahin ay nakapaghukay na ng 1 meter lalim at natambakan na rin ng DBS materials.
Kaya halos 2 meters high lumalabas ang hukay ng DBS area. Ito naman po ang kaharap ng 5 dbs farrowing pens na under construction pa. 5 din silang dbs farrowing pens na natapos ng buhusan ang mga pens ng inahin. Magsisimula na silang magtambak ng iba ibang dbs materials sa mahigit 1 meter na lalim na hukay ng dbs area habang patuloy na nagwewelding ang welder ng 5 na removable farrowing pens. Ito naman ang overall view ng 2 P.I.G.S.
Na magkaharapan na tapos na rin at fully operational na. Wala pang laman na mga piglets kaya ginagawa munang tambakan ng materials. Ang kasunod nito ay ang tig-5 magkaharap na DBS farrowing pens, na sinundan naman sa dulo ng magkaharap na tig-17 space or a total of 34 spaces na gestating pens. Sa bandang itaas nito ay ang 4th partition na paglalagyan ng 2 boar houses at additional P.I.G.S. Hopefully, 1 more month pa ay matatapos na itong pig housing.
Arjay wrote: Kuyang Tony et al, Pulot lang FEEDING FOR GROWERS Good things for protein are: Fishmeal, Alfalfa Soya yucca leaves Camote(sweet potatoe leaves) porroto de palo.( pigeon peas) For carbohydrates: Bananas Corn, yucca, papas chinas, With what you have, this is a good mix for growers 10 percent fishmeal, 15 percent breadmix 30 percent yucca 10 percent dried yucca leaves 20 percent corn 15 percent greens(plantain leaves, grass, alfalfa, chileno, ) Precautions: If protein is not enough, increase the fishmeal and the dried yucca leaves by 2% to 5% each. Do not give more then 40 or 50% yuca. Be careful that the old bread is not moldy. Arjay, Pag establish ka na, madaling testingin ito sa isang grupo ng 2 fatteners. Ang 1 head ay pantesting.
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Ang 1 other head ay to be fed your regular feeds. Compare the result of the 2 heads in terms of growth by kilos and detailed cost of feeds consumed. If I have space in my farm, I do the testing also. If the growth of the 2 pigs are the same and there is substantial savings in feed cost, maybe this method is worth pursuing. I'll keep in mind Kuyang Tony, almost tapos na mga pens mo. Good luck and may your business/hobby grows smoothly Regards.
Joprans wrote: Hi guys its been a very long time since i was here. I had to stop bec. Of my friend yolanda! Anyways babalik na din ako sa negosyong eto. Parang restart / rebuild ulit. Ask ko lang do u still ferment the new formula na ginagawa mo b4 pakain sa pig? I mean after mo ma mix yung 300kg total materials u still need to ferment d mixture for 24hr para maging liquid ryt?
Sa fasting every sunday po di ba 1 day feeding lang po kayu on monday or d next day do u do d regular 3pm fresh greens then 4 pm ang meal? Or nag bibigay pa din kayu nang greens sa umaga? Ang dami ko nang babasahin ulit.
Hehehe Joprans. After ma-mix yong 300 kilos total materials ay lagay uli sa sako or drums at stock sa lugar na hindi naaarawan. Parang new mixed feeds na yon, kaya kelangan ferment uli for minimum 12 hours or maximum 24 hours para maging liquid feed uli bago ipakain sa mga baboy.
During this time ay hinahalo na rin namin ang iba-ibang solids ng FPJ, FFJ, FAA, OHN at LABS na nilagay namin sa freezer matapos ihiwalay sa concentrated liquid nila. Ang solida ay pandagdag sa volume ng fermented feeds. Testing pa lang namin ang fasting every Sunday kaya hindi pa final yon. The next day Monday ay regular once a day feeding pa rin at sa hapon na ang merienda na ng mga fresh green leaves. Ok tnx po kuyang d. Joprans, Mukhang decided ka na yatang mag timpla na rin ng feedspro feeds per Sir Andry Lim formulary, ah.
Matrabaho pag walang mixer at susundin ang recommends ni Sir Andry na gumamit lang ng spade (pala sa construction). Kaya bumili ako ng brand new cement mixer. Next maginvest din ako sa multi-purpose shredder ng Agriventa. P75K daw plus shipping sabi ni tj.
Marami ka na ba tanim? Malaking bagay ang mga bunga ng Palm Oil Tree. Sa isang puno lang ay ang dami ng bungang naaani. Wala pa akong palm oil tree pero most of d plants may mga tanim na akong pedeng kunan nang mga cuttings.
Pede na akong mag mass planting kaso lang tag tuyot na dito. May nakita na din akong tindahan nang feed pro pero ang layu sa amin 2hrs drive. Bumabangon pa baboyan ko balik cmula ako. Pede mo ba akong padalhan nang matured na bunga nito gagawing kung seedling. Babayad nalang ako sa lahat nang charges. Btw panu ba pa reduce nang weight nang inahin na indi nababwasn sustansya na ibinibigay sa kanila. Buntis na kahit nag reduce na ako pakain parang palaki pa din cya nan palaki.
Ok pa bang kumain cya below half a kilo per day? Napansin ko din na medyo ayaw niyang tumayo mga last day of may ay manganganak na to. 1week b4 managanak babalik ko normal na pakain. Unang beses pa lang manganak to. 2 sow lang tinira ko sa bukid dahil nasira lahat structure ko at subrang init na dun sa lugar namin walang kahoy kinalbo ni yolanda. Joprans wrote: Btw panu ba pa reduce nang weight nang inahin na indi nababwasn sustansya na ibinibigay sa kanila.
Buntis na kahit nag reduce na ako pakain parang palaki pa din cya nan palaki. Ok pa bang kumain cya below half a kilo per day? Napansin ko din na medyo ayaw niyang tumayo mga last day of may ay manganganak na to.
1week b4 managanak babalik ko normal na pakain. Unang beses pa lang manganak to. 2 sow lang tinira ko sa bukid dahil nasira lahat structure ko at subrang init na dun sa lugar namin walang kahoy kinalbo ni yolanda. Joprans, Ito ang pinasusunod ko sa vet namin tungkol sa gilt/sow nutrition. Nabasa ko din ito sa forum at copy and paste ko sa computer ko matapos ipadala ko sa vet ko for implementation. Hindi ko na matandaan kung galing ito kay Sir Irwinmelo or kay DFS or a combination of both nilang dalawa. Here are their recommends on the gilt/sow nutrition: GILT/SOW NUTRITION The recommended gestation diet during gestation for gilts and sows is a limited feeding program.
However, it should be emphasized that a limited-feeding program is limiting only the energy intake and not the other nutrients, such as protein, minerals, and vitamins. The energy is limited in order to keep sows from becoming too fat. Excessive feeding of gilts and sows leads to increased costs and interferes with the potential to maximize reproductive efficiency. Sows that are overfed immediately after breeding (A.I.) or throughout gestation, often suffer high embryonic mortality, producing smaller litters than sows fed proper amounts.
Sows that become too fat have a tendency to have more farrowing difficulties and crush more pigs. This is especially true during the summer, when the sows are subject to heat stress. Kahit po sa preparation ng mga gagawing inahin. Ang common question ng ilang hog raisers kapag nag e-inquire ng gilt, ilang kilo po by 5 months or 150 days old?
Kapag sinagot ko ng 75-80 kg po, ang susunod na tanong ay, di po ba maliit iyon? Iba po ang pagpapalaki ng breeder kaysa sa fattener. Kung ang target sa fattener na pinakakain ng hanggat gusto (ad libitum) at pinabibigat hanggang kaya ay 85 kg at 150 days or 5 months old, dapat po di pakanin at pabigatin ang breeder gilts na kagaya nila.
Dapat po ay 75-80 kg lang ang sa breeder na gilts at 150 days or 5 months old. Nabangit na po sa unahan ang epekto ng over feeding at benepisyo ng limited feeding.
Patunay lang po na dapat ay mamintina lamang natin ang body condition or body score no. 3 ng gilt natin In what we practice, our intention is to make 140 kg body weight when they are 8 months old. As such, I generally treat the gilts as fattener until 120 days or 4 months old (meaning fed with hog grower feeds). Then I give them developing breeder diet instead of hog finisher feeds after 120 days or after 4 months old. Yung developing breeder diet ay basically merong higher vitamin levels than a grower diet.
A bit similar energy level sa hog finisher but amino acid level na similar naman sa hog grower diet. We control the amount fed (lessen the amount by about 250 grams) if the pigs are 'becoming fat' visually. Medyo subjective eto at tantiahan ang pagpapakain dahil nasa group pen at sama-sama pa sila. At around 7 months or 210 days old ay mag-actual weighing to see if malayo pa sa target na timbang nila by 8 months or 240 days old. During pregnancy, very critical na ang body condition nila ay nasa ideal state (body score na 3) until they are on their second trimester of gestation (60 days).
Sa last trimester (90 days onward) we increase their feeds (gestating diet) para maging 4 ang body score. In our practice, we feed about 3.5 to 3.75 kg per day ng gestating ration from day 90 to day 112 of pregnancy. Then drop the amount to 2.5 kg from 113 days to the day they farrow. this controls the birth weight.
If you under feed, birth weight becomes low. If you over feed, embryonic death can occur.
If you give lactating feed very early during gestation, you run the risk of fat sows with fatty mammary glands that eventually won't produce too much milk. If you over feed with lactating feed, it might increase the birth weight too high (1.8 kg or more) that can lead to difficulty in farrowing (dystocia). Dystocia means crushed, mummified, stillbirth, dead piglets pag nilabas na ng inahin. Nagbibigay lang kami ng lactating feeds AFTER farrow (nanganak na). This practice prevents/minimize dystocia. Joprans wrote: Hi guys its been a very long time since i was here.
I had to stop bec. Of my friend yolanda! Anyways babalik na din ako sa negosyong eto. Parang restart / rebuild ulit. Ask ko lang do u still ferment the new formula na ginagawa mo b4 pakain sa pig? I mean after mo ma mix yung 300kg total materials u still need to ferment d mixture for 24hr para maging liquid ryt?
Sa fasting every sunday po di ba 1 day feeding lang po kayu on monday or d next day do u do d regular 3pm fresh greens then 4 pm ang meal? Or nag bibigay pa din kayu nang greens sa umaga? Chocolatier decadence by design game free download full version. Ang dami ko nang babasahin ulit. Hehehe Joprans. After ma-mix yong 300 kilos total materials ay lagay uli sa sako or drums at stock sa lugar na hindi naaarawan.
Parang new mixed feeds na yon, kaya kelangan ferment uli for minimum 12 hours or maximum 24 hours para maging liquid feed uli bago ipakain sa mga baboy. During this time ay hinahalo na rin namin ang iba-ibang solids ng FPJ, FFJ, FAA, OHN at LABS na nilagay namin sa freezer matapos ihiwalay sa concentrated liquid nila. Ang solids ay pandagdag sa volume ng fermented feeds and as good as the liquid concentrates in terms of nutrients.
Testing pa lang namin ang fasting every Sunday kaya hindi pa final yon. The next day Monday ay regular once a day feeding pa rin sa umaga at sa hapon na ang merienda ng mga fresh green leaves. Decided akong ituloy ang testing sa isang gropo ng mga biik dahil napakalaking savings talaga sa feed cost ang magiging resulta. Ok tnx po kuyang d. Joprans, Mukhang decided ka na yatang mag timpla na rin ng feedspro feeds per Sir Andry Lim formulary, ah.
Matrabaho pag walang mixer at susundin ang recommends ni Sir Andry na gumamit lang ng spade (pala sa construction). Kaya bumili ako ng brand new cement mixer. Next maginvest din ako sa multi-purpose shredder ng Agriventa.
P75K daw plus shipping sabi ni tj. Marami ka na ba tanim? Malaking bagay ang mga bunga ng Palm Oil Tree. Sa isang puno lang ay ang dami ng bungang naaani. Wala pa akong palm oil tree pero most of d plants may mga tanim na akong pedeng kunan nang mga cuttings. Pede na akong mag mass planting kaso lang tag tuyot na dito. May nakita na din akong tindahan nang feed pro pero ang layu sa amin 2hrs drive.
Bumabangon pa baboyan ko balik cmula ako. Pede mo ba akong padalhan nang matured na bunga nito gagawing kung seedling. Babayad nalang ako sa lahat nang charges. Joprans, Puede mong kontakin si Sir Wintuha aka Sir Ross tungkol sa seedlings ng Palm Oil Trees. Malalaki na kasi ang mga seedlings nia na puedeng pagtiagaan patubuin. Makapal ang outer layer ng seedling kaya matagal bago tumubo.
Ang mga bunga ng Palm Oil trees ko ay maliliit pa lang dahil unang bunga pa lang. Sa susunod na mga bunches na bunga ay baka malalaki na dahil malapit na sila sa 3 years. Pag nakaani ako ng malalaki ng bunga ay padadalhan kita via LBC. Pero kung matulungan ka ni Sir Wintuha ay mapapadali ang pagkakaroon mo ng seedlings ng Palm Oil tree na patutubuin.
Mga Kuyang, Sharing the pics ng Hypigs Pure Largewhite sow ko habang ginagawan ng artificial insimination (A.I.) ng Vet ko na gamit ang Pure Largewhite semen na galing sa DEPO Breeding Center from Nueva Ecija (DFS). Inorder ko kahapon at dumating naman via LBC kaninang 1PM kaya deretso na agad sa farm para gamitin ng Vet sa A.I. Tinitesting muna ng vet na sakyan ang sow for standing heat: 2. Pinasakyan na sa isang farm workers ang sow habang ginagawa naman ng vet ang pag A.I.
Sa puerto ng inahin. Mapapansin na kayang kaya ng inahin ang bigat ng worker sa likod nia.
Bukas ng umaga ay uulitin nila ang second A.I. Para sigurado na mag-take ang inahin.
Sana tuloy na mabuntis ang inahin dahil this is our attempt to produce pure Largewhite piglets. Duckduck wrote: Mga Kuyang, Sharing the pics ng Hypigs Pure Largewhite sow ko habang ginagawan ng artificial insimination (A.I.) ng Vet ko na gamit ang Pure Largewhite semen na galing sa DEPO Breeding Center from Nueva Ecija (DFS). Inorder ko kahapon at dumating naman via LBC kaninang 1PM kaya deretso na agad sa farm para gamitin ng Vet sa A.I. Tinitesting muna ng vet na sakyan ang sow for standing heat: 2. Pinasakyan na sa isang farm workers ang sow habang ginagawa naman ng vet ang pag A.I. Sa puerto ng inahin.
Mapapansin na kayang kaya ng inahin ang bigat ng worker sa likod nia. Bukas ng umaga ay uulitin nila ang second A.I. Para sigurado na mag-take ang inahin. Sana tuloy na mabuntis ang inahin dahil this is our attempt to produce pure Largewhite piglets.
Kuyang Tony, I'm happy for you tuloy tuloy na ang pag laki ng hobby mo. You're my inspiration. Galing mo sa management.
Marami pa akong kakaining bigas pero, dedicated ako na matuloy at mag karoon ng tulad sayo kahit one third lang sa kabuuan. Substitute hobby ko din hanggang sa paguwi. Keep it up and continue the good work and deed. Kind regards.
Kuyang Tony et al, Difference between backyard piggery and piggery farm. Do you think it applies in certain localities or it is necessary? MINUTES OF THE 78th REGULAR SESSION OF THE 7TH SANGGUNIANG BAYAN OF DUPAX DEL NORTE, NUEVA VIZCAYA HELD AT THE MUNICIPAL SESSION HALL ON SEPTEMBER 21, 2012 FROM 9:00 TO 10:15 IN THE MORNING. PRESENT: Hon. Vice Mayor & Presiding Officer Hon. BALAW-ING-do Sangguniang Bayan Member Hon. PADILLA-do Sangguniang Bayan Member Hon.
BALISI-do Hon. JULIUS JOEY M. SALUD-do Hon. LANGCAO, SR.-do-Hon.
WAYAN-do Hon. ABBAGU- ABC President-Hon. BELMONTE-PPSK Vice President ABSENT:NONE ORDINANCE NO. 10, S-2012 AN ORDINANCE STRICTLY PRESCRIBING PROPER HYGIENE AND SANITARY MEASURES FOR ALL OWNERS OF BACKYARD PIGGERY AND PIGGERY FARM WITHIN THE TERRITORIAL JURISDICTION OF DUPAX DEL NORTE, PROVIDING CORRESPONDING PENALTY FOR THE VIOLATION THEREOF. BE IT ORDAINED by the Sangguniang Bayan of Dupax del Norte in Regular Session assembled that: SECTION I: TITLE –BACKYARD PIGGERY AND PIGGERY FARMORDINANCE SECTION II: COVERACE – This ordinance shall cover all owners of backyard and farm piggeries located within the territorial jurisdiction of Dupax del Norte, Nueva Vizcaya. Apparently, the ordinance is being implemented because of concernes of sanitations among people living in urban areas and even on agricultural areas dahil sa mabahong amoy ng mga tae at ihi ng baboy mga baboyang conventional. Ito ang dahilan kaya sa aming barangay at kahit na sa urban areas sa kabayanan ay masigla ang kampanya namin sa mga backyard raisers na bumibili sa amin ng mga piglets at baboy na maipakita namin ang malaking nagagawa ng baboyang walang amoy in the reduction of bad smell ng baboyan.
Sa amin ay wala pang ganitong ordinance at pag magkaroon man ay siguradong papuntahin ko ang aking caretaker para inbetahan ang mga officials sa farm ko para makita nila ang pagkakaiba ng DBS p.i.g.s. Sa conventional na baboyan. Mga Kuyang, To those who are looking for a software on how to make pedigrees, just click on the below link and find out for yourself whether to get one for the pigs, for the dogs and cats and whatever animal you want to keep track of their pedigrees and history of how they were bred, so that it is easy for you select the breeding method you've have done that clicked for the purpose of doing repeat breeding. This company have expanded their software design to have everything for all kinds of animals. When I was still breeding pit bulls, I bought the version of the software for dogs and found it to be very useful as a guide to what breeding pairs produced good off-springs and of course also to print very nice pedigrees to give to buyers of your piglets and pigs. By giving out pedigrees to buyers, it also helps upgrade the image of your farm in the eyes of the customers and helps develop your sales effort and repeat sales.
I plan to buy an upgrade to the software I already have for dogs but try to request them to send me the upgrade applicable to pigs that will cost about half the price only. Hope they will approve my request. BTW, I have no connection with the company selling the software nor am I receiving any commission from them. I am just one of their happy customers about a good quality software to help me in my breeding efforts.
I even have a software about how to feed raw foods to dogs and my dogs were very healthy and have shiny coats at that time, until I stopped when pit bulls and dog fighting were banned by the government and laws were enacted to make it a criminal offense. I even gave away for FREE all my pitbhulls (even the pure breed imported ones) to my friend. But now that my dog in the farm died, I can no longer find someone (even all my friends) who will give me a free dog to help guard my farm with the stay-in workers. The reason is that my friends also quit raising pit-bulls and they don't have extra to give out for free also. I just hope there are refutable companies that shall publish one about raw foods for pigs. Anyway, I'm already feeding my pigs organic food and was able to reduce my feed cost more than 22% by mixing my own organic feeds and continue to strive to increase the per cent of savings on feed cost by using additional plants I planted in my farm to continue reducing the commercial feeds I used in mixing organic feed.so I think I probably don't need the software anymore.
But unlike the software producers, I give out the formulas for free. However, ang requirement dito ay magtanim ng magtanim ng mga tanim na kelangan sa feed mixing. Kasi ang raw food sa mga aso ay karamihan animal based (mga manok, laman loob ng baka at mga vegetable din) compared sa raw food sa baboy na ang karamihan ay plant based and some fresh fish. Here is the link to the software producer.
Just click on the link to go to their website. Joprans wrote: Btw panu ba pa reduce nang weight nang inahin na indi nababwasn sustansya na ibinibigay sa kanila. Buntis na kahit nag reduce na ako pakain parang palaki pa din cya nan palaki. Ok pa bang kumain cya below half a kilo per day? Napansin ko din na medyo ayaw niyang tumayo mga last day of may ay manganganak na to.
1week b4 managanak babalik ko normal na pakain. Unang beses pa lang manganak to. 2 sow lang tinira ko sa bukid dahil nasira lahat structure ko at subrang init na dun sa lugar namin walang kahoy kinalbo ni yolanda. Joprans, Ito ang pinasusunod ko sa vet namin tungkol sa gilt/sow nutrition.
Nabasa ko din ito sa forum at copy and paste ko sa computer ko matapos ipadala ko sa vet ko for implementation. Hindi ko na matandaan kung galing ito kay Sir Irwinmelo or kay DFS or a combination of both nilang dalawa. Here are their recommends on the gilt/sow nutrition: GILT/SOW NUTRITION The recommended gestation diet during gestation for gilts and sows is a limited feeding program. However, it should be emphasized that a limited-feeding program is limiting only the energy intake and not the other nutrients, such as protein, minerals, and vitamins. The energy is limited in order to keep sows from becoming too fat. Excessive feeding of gilts and sows leads to increased costs and interferes with the potential to maximize reproductive efficiency.
Sows that are overfed immediately after breeding (A.I.) or throughout gestation, often suffer high embryonic mortality, producing smaller litters than sows fed proper amounts. Sows that become too fat have a tendency to have more farrowing difficulties and crush more pigs. This is especially true during the summer, when the sows are subject to heat stress. Kahit po sa preparation ng mga gagawing inahin. Ang common question ng ilang hog raisers kapag nag e-inquire ng gilt, ilang kilo po by 5 months or 150 days old? Kapag sinagot ko ng 75-80 kg po, ang susunod na tanong ay, di po ba maliit iyon? Iba po ang pagpapalaki ng breeder kaysa sa fattener.
Kung ang target sa fattener na pinakakain ng hanggat gusto (ad libitum) at pinabibigat hanggang kaya ay 85 kg at 150 days or 5 months old, dapat po di pakanin at pabigatin ang breeder gilts na kagaya nila. Dapat po ay 75-80 kg lang ang sa breeder na gilts at 150 days or 5 months old. Nabangit na po sa unahan ang epekto ng over feeding at benepisyo ng limited feeding. Patunay lang po na dapat ay mamintina lamang natin ang body condition or body score no. 3 ng gilt natin In what we practice, our intention is to make 140 kg body weight when they are 8 months old.
As such, I generally treat the gilts as fattener until 120 days or 4 months old (meaning fed with hog grower feeds). Then I give them developing breeder diet instead of hog finisher feeds after 120 days or after 4 months old. Yung developing breeder diet ay basically merong higher vitamin levels than a grower diet.
A bit similar energy level sa hog finisher but amino acid level na similar naman sa hog grower diet. We control the amount fed (lessen the amount by about 250 grams) if the pigs are 'becoming fat' visually. Medyo subjective eto at tantiahan ang pagpapakain dahil nasa group pen at sama-sama pa sila. At around 7 months or 210 days old ay mag-actual weighing to see if malayo pa sa target na timbang nila by 8 months or 240 days old. During pregnancy, very critical na ang body condition nila ay nasa ideal state (body score na 3) until they are on their second trimester of gestation (60 days). Sa last trimester (90 days onward) we increase their feeds (gestating diet) para maging 4 ang body score.
In our practice, we feed about 3.5 to 3.75 kg per day ng gestating ration from day 90 to day 112 of pregnancy. Then drop the amount to 2.5 kg from 113 days to the day they farrow. this controls the birth weight. If you under feed, birth weight becomes low. If you over feed, embryonic death can occur.
If you give lactating feed very early during gestation, you run the risk of fat sows with fatty mammary glands that eventually won't produce too much milk. If you over feed with lactating feed, it might increase the birth weight too high (1.8 kg or more) that can lead to difficulty in farrowing (dystocia). Dystocia means crushed, mummified, stillbirth, dead piglets pag nilabas na ng inahin.
Nagbibigay lang kami ng lactating feeds AFTER farrow (nanganak na). This practice prevents/minimize dystocia. Noted kuyang D. Sa pag pili ko kac nang sow ngayun is from d fatteners group so from start it will consume and grow up like a fattening pig. Wala pa ako sa level of choosing breeds and blood line kac wala pa pera. Kumukuha lang kami sa linya nang mga magagandang manganak na inahin and its attitude. Sabi nang mga nakakatanda kac aanhin mo magandang breed kung indi naman magandang mag alaga nang biik ang isang inahin.
We have already experience hybrid pigs which are cannibal and sensitive not actually ours but from our neighbor it cost them 15k per gilt. Ewan ko kung saang parti nang mundo nila nakuha yun. Katulad din pala nang tao yan mas siksi mas madaling mang.akit at mas mataas ang sex hormone compared to fat ones. The reproduction system are also active due to regular diets and right nutrients supplied to d area. Unlike fatty humans, fats causes fatty organs and hormonal embalance that hinders normal reproductive cycle at madami pang bad effects yang fats.
Natutunan ko yan sa mga magasawang gustong magkaanak na madami kac kaming kakilala dito sa area namin. Minsan ka lang din makakakita nang chubby na highschool girl na nag lalandi na o napabuntisan karamihan talaga yung mga siksi. So dapat pala talaga e treat natin cla kakaiba sa mga fatteners. Sa normal practice namin Highest ADG/16 nipples/ upright / good feet/vagina and balance body from those fatteners will qualify to become a sow. Dapat pala talaga after hiwalay sa ina maka identify ka na nang mga qualifier for a mother. Then after 90 days makuha mo na yung mga winners mo para yung mga bumagsak macontinue mo bilang fatteners at mahiwalay mo na mga grand winners. Carlmags wrote: Here's the DBS pens for fatteners based sa modifications ni Kuyang Tony Sorry Kuyang Alan, ngayun ko lang masasagot ito, busy kasi sa pag concentrate sa pagbababuyan.
Maluwag pa yan sa 20 fattening pigs. Ewan ko kasi kung sinunod ng contractor ko na 20x10 feet, baka mas maluwang pa ginawa nya. Ang inaalagaan ko kasi ngayun dyan sa dbs pen na yan is 14 heads at napaka luwang pa. Malalaki na sila ngayun at ready to sell na by end of this month or 1st week ng June. Regards to all.kuyang tony, kuyang ernan, at kuyang Kenbats.yan mga kinopyahan ko yan ng kanilang ideas Mga 20 heads kasya dito. Sir Carlmags, Ok po ang design ng dbs pen po ninyo. Magkano po ang cost ng materyales at labour?
Tanong ko lang po kung 20 heads po ang kasya dito hindi po kaya masyadong makitid ang dbs area para sa kanilang lahat? Base yan boss sa 1.5 sqm per head Sir, Carl.
Correct me if am wrong.ang sabi sa video napanood ko sa youtube.1.5m²-2m² per head sa dbs lang po yon hindi pa po kasama yung wallowing pan at labangan.kung 20 heads ilagay mo d kaya masyadong masikip na.? ^^^^ mukang may mali sa quote, sir Allan ito sagot ko sa taas Sorry Kuyang Alan, ngayun ko lang masasagot ito, busy kasi sa pag concentrate sa pagbababuyan. Maluwag pa yan sa 20 fattening pigs. Ewan ko kasi kung sinunod ng contractor ko na 20x10 feet, baka mas maluwang pa ginawa nya. Ang inaalagaan ko kasi ngayun dyan sa dbs pen na yan is 14 heads at napaka luwang pa.
Malalaki na sila ngayun at ready to sell na by end of this month or 1st week ng June. Regards to all.kuyang tony, kuyang ernan, at kuyang Kenbats.yan mga kinopyahan ko yan ng kanilang ideas. Carlmags wrote: ^^^^ mukang may mali sa quote, sir Allan ito sagot ko sa taas Sorry Kuyang Alan, ngayun ko lang masasagot ito, busy kasi sa pag concentrate sa pagbababuyan. Maluwag pa yan sa 20 fattening pigs. Ewan ko kasi kung sinunod ng contractor ko na 20x10 feet, baka mas maluwang pa ginawa nya.
Ang inaalagaan ko kasi ngayun dyan sa dbs pen na yan is 14 heads at napaka luwang pa. Malalaki na sila ngayun at ready to sell na by end of this month or 1st week ng June.
Regards to all.kuyang tony, kuyang ernan, at kuyang Kenbats.yan mga kinopyahan ko yan ng kanilang ideas Kuyang carl, Medyu matagal kang d nakapasyal dto sa forum ah. Kumusta ka na? Kumusta naman ang mga alaga natin? Cguro malaki na ang farm mo.naka pag expand kana ata. Yung sa akin, kakapanganak pa lang ng 1 kung inahin, 14 ana puro buhay.1st parity pa kaya laking pasasalamat ko na buhay lahat ang anak. Hati kami sa biik ng nag aalaga ng inahin namin.tapos 30 heads fattening na kami.hopefully madagdagan pa.
Saan nga pala located ang farm mo.? Buti ka pa 9 na f1 inahin mo at may pure large white ka pa.c sir tony may pure na rin ata na large white based doon sa post nya. Yung sa akin 4 inahin ko anak ng f1 tapos ang tatay high breed din peru d ko sure kung f1 or f2.so pag ganitong case matatawag bah na f2 yung inahin ko.? Yung 4 na inahin ko puro pinapaalagaan namin sa kapit bahay.kasi d pa accomodate ni mrs lahat pag xa pa ang mag aalaga.wala kasi kami katulong xa lang nag aalaga sa 30 heads ngayun.tapos d ko pa nasimulang ang DBS ko, gusto ko ako mismo gagawa pag uwi ko.sa ngayun naka convintional kami kaya bumili xa ng power spray para madali ang paglinis ng kulungan at malaking tulong naman.am sure pag na established ko na P.I.G.S ko d na xa mahihirapan sa pag aalaga kasi kunti nalang ang lilinisin.pag nagawa ko ng P.I.G.S ko kukuha ako ng GP na gilts kahit dalawa lang muna.hopefully in God grace.
On June 22, 2011, PCARRD and PCAMRD was consolidated and is now known as the Philippine Council for Agriculture, Aquatic, and Natural Resources Research and Development or PCAARRD. WELCOME! This forum is venue for the dynamic exchange of knowledge and experience among experts, farmers, and industry practitioners in the agriculture, aquatic and natural resources (AANR) sectors. As our clients, we value your comments and inquiries.
Reminder: Please use the SEARCH FUNCTION first before creating a new topic. To all backyard swine beginners and experienced baboyeros alike, After suggestions from friends, we are opening this thread to re-open the deleted thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy, Deep Bedding System'. The new title shall cover expanded topics to discuss alternative feeds to the more costly commercial feeds, and also to discuss ways on how to solve the continuing lower cost of live weight prices. We also believe that this thread should discuss lower cost of pig housing so that the savings can be used to buying piglets and feeds to start the business the soonest possible time. All contributors from regions in the Philippines and even abroad are invited and welcomed to contribute in this thread whether they are tested effective practices. For beginners to emulate or constructive postings, to improve on existing practices.
If someone has posted a question related to the above topic, we would appreciate an answer from those experts or experienced members. BTW, for the benefit of all members, while it is easy to delete one's own post, it is not easy to delete one's own thread.
Here are the procedures to delete one's own thread: 1. Go to the top of PCAARRD Message Board Message Central Spam Reporting and if you see a posting by Admin, click on the date in 'blue'. 2, You will be forwarded to a screen where you will be allowed to email the administrator regarding your request to delete your own thread.
You will receive an email later that your request was granted. You can now go to the thread that you want to be deleted.
You may now delete your own thread and all posts of other members in that thread. In the the other section, the high cost of yellow corn nowadays is causing the upward movement of animal feed's cost, even for those who are mixing their own animal feed.
Somebody mentioned that a combination of rice bran and vegetable oil or used cooking oil (waste from fastfood chain or restaurants) will provide the required metabolized energy required by the pig. This is an alternative that backyard raisers may look into in order to minimize the effect of high cost of yellow corn. I also mentioned in the other sections that a study done in Colombia that was published by the Food Administration Organization of the United Nations, that crude palm oil or palm oil fruit could be used as substitute, partly or wholly, for sorghum (more or less equivalent to yellow corn in terms of nutritional value). Also, fresh fruit of oil palm is rich in beta carotene, similar to yellow corn. In certain areas in Mindanao (Surigao, Cotabato, Sultan Kudarat, Davao, etc.) and the provinces of Bohol and Palawan are now developing oil palm plantations. Hog raisers in those areas may have the option to use palm oil fruits or its by-products in animal feed. Wintuha wrote: Wrangler, Try to calculate the crude protein and metabolized energy of the mixture of copra meal, yellow corn and rice bran.
For grower na 35-60 kg and required cp is around 18% and metabolized energy is 3000 kcal/kg Kung yung 4 ingredients lang gagamitin mo, mejo mahirap ipa 18% crude protein since copra is about 20%CP, and palm kernel meal is about 19%CP. I dont know nga lang how the CP would differ from fresh palm to palm kernel meal.
If you wanted to reach 18%CP that would mean almost 85%PKM is to 15%d1 74%Copra is to 26%d1 91%PKM is to 9%corn 84%PKM is to 16% corn Siguro if you add soybean meal mas plausible pa to come up with a balanced ration. But kung pang dagdag lang tlga sa pagkain ng baboy para di maxado magastos sa feed cost, then dont sweat it too much.
Basta di maxado na-affect performance di ba? Trial and error nlng to which ratio is best! What I mean sir is yung mga feedstuff na nabangit ko eh bale ihahalo ko lang po sa daily ration ng mga finisher ko. Pero syempre ang main purpose ko is to lessen my cost of production ko kasi may corn field, at may mga coconut naman kami dito at ang rice bran ay mabibili ko lang sa murang halaga kasi may rice mill ang tito ko. That's why if ihahalo ko na mga yun babawasan ko naman yung amount of commercial feeds na binibigay.
Pero di ko alam if maganda outcome nito kasi hindi ko alam ang level ng mga cp content, calcium, ME and other minerals na maibabawas sa commercial feeds ko and di ko rin alam kung pano ito i-replace by adding available feedstuffs in our locality. What happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy.
And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon.
Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis.
Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon.
Sir Fapper, Musta na? Sa nakita kong mga pics ng DBS piggery mo, ay nakakatiyak akong complete success yon dahil ginastusan mo talaga at pangmatagalan ang structure, patterned sa mga drawings ni Kuyang C. Ang you are in the right path, just like me, in solving the very low live weight price of the biaheros. I am sure that, that topic is a legitimate extension of the thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy', na dapat ay pagusapan talaga sa thread, dahil pagkatapos natin na mapalaki ang mga baboy using the DBS system, ay talagang malaking problema kung malulugi lang tayo sa pagbenta ng mga baboy. Sir Fapper, we would appreciate if you can post here all the drawings of your DBS piggery setup because it is the counterpart of the drawings of our Kuyang C who prohibited me to post his drawings in this thread. I shall also post the pics of my DBS setup that I patterned from the You Tube P.I.G.S. I modified the layout in that system to address someone's complaint that the dirty DBS materials might contaminate the feeds that the pigs are eating in the feeding troughs.
The resulting modified DBS P.I.G.S. System came out to be a truly low cost pig housing system that is suited for members who have a low budget for their pig housing plans but equally effective din po. I shall also attempt to post the pics of the pigs shown in the 'Gabay Sa Kabuhayan', if I shall be able to recover them, to show the different kinds of pigs, that we are dealing with in the DBS system, for the benefit of the members. With your drawings/pics and those of mine, I think this thread can be jump started to discuss the two kinds of DBS system that can be expanded to feeds alternatives, the conventional gestating/farrowing pens/DBS farrowing pens, and effective marketing of our products. Merry Christmas po and Happy New Year to all. Duckduck wrote: GABAY SA KABUHAYAN AND PICS OF PIGS: 1. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF THE SOURCE OF MATERIALS: 2.
TRIPLE CROSS FINISHERS: 3. TRIPLE CROSS PIGS; HYBRID PIGS: 4. SOW LINE AND BOAR LINE: 5. DOMINANT TRAITS AND RECESSIVE TRAITS: 6. WHITE COLOR PIGS; COLORED PIGS: 7. BACK-CROSSING OF PIGS: 8. PHILIPPINE NATIVE PIG: Based on prior postings, this pic of the native Philippines pig is just to show the origin of our Philippine pig and not necessarily to be used in the breeding program of modern slaughter pigs, unless a breeder is engage of breeding pigs exclusively for lechon purposes who have exclusive markets for native pigs.
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BERKSHIRE BOAR: This pig got its name and originated from England, county of Berhshire and is known as Britain's oldest pig breed. According to internet information, this is a rare breed of pig originating from Berkshire, England. In the United States this pig was established by the American Berkshire Association.
The pig have large ears and are erect or slightly leaning forward. The legs are short and straight and have a straight underline belly as you can see from the picture. Berkshire pork is noted for its juiciness, good flavor, pink color meat and terdenness. They are also called a 'small farm pig' noted for its ability to sow farm fields and live in free ranges.
Please click on this link: 10. HAMPSHIRE BOAR: This is a domestic breed of pig that has erect eard and and a black body with whitish band around the shoulder of the body covering the front legs. This pig is said to have originated from Hampshire, England and later exported to the United States. They are noted for being well-muscled, big boned, grows rapidly and produce good meat.
When used as breeding stock, the sows of this breed are good mothers and good tempered. LANDRACE SOW: Landrace, just like the LargeWhites have white skin and and don't have black hair in their bodies. However, the Landrace are lop-eared pigs compared with the LargeWhites, with a long middle, light forequarters, and very good ham development. There were major faults observed with the Original Landrace such as weak legs, splay legs and nervous disorders. This is probably why the modern breeders have to cross-breed them with the LargeWhites and other breeds.
LARGEWHITE BOAR:The Large White pig is rugged and hardy, and can withstand a wide of climates. Its use is in crossbreeding or hybrid breeding programs with the most popular cross being is with the Landrace breed. This cross is ofter used as the maternal line in commercial breeding. A 3rd breed such as from a Duroc line is often used as a terminal sire. Market demands for low amounts of fat and high levels of lean meat made way to breeding programs such as the triple way by introducing the Duroc blood to a cross between the LargeWhite and the Landrace. Largewhite sows were noted for their large litter size and heavy milk production, good mothering ability and strong legs and feet. These traits make them ideal for longer production results of the sows.
Large Whites have white skin and don't have black hair in their bodies. They are big boned and large-framed, having a long middle and light shoulders. Their legs are longer compared to other breeds and have long deep sides. The head is moderately long with the face slightly dished, and the ears are pricked upwards. DUROC BOAR: Based on internet information that I found, in 1823, Isaac Frink of Milton in Saratoga County, New York, obtained from Harry Kelsey of Florida New York, a red boar, one of a litter of ten pigs. The sire and dam of these pigs were probably imported from England. Kelsey happened to own a famous trotting stallion named Duroc, so Mr.
Frink named his red boar in honour of the horse. This boar was known for his smoothness and carcase quality. Duroc's 'the pig' progeny continued the Duroc name and many of them inherited his colour, quick growth and maturity, deep body, broad ham and shoulder, and quiet disposition.
Further breeding development of its progeny gave its offspring the tenacity and docility towards its young and made it an ideal candidate for an outdoor pig, either as a dam or sire, and its succulence and heavy muscling makes it very suitable for anything from light pork to heavy hog production. Further research funded by the MLC has investigated the Duroc’s claim to produce high levels of tenderness.
This has led to a recommendation to include Duroc genetics as part of the meat quality Blueprint. DUROC BOAR#2: Please read the internet information about the Duroc Boar on no. PIETRAIN BOAR: Again based on internet information that I got, the breed is of medium size and has white with black spots. Around the black spots there are characteristic rings of light pigmentation that carries white hair. The breed is commonly referred to as being of piebald markings.
The ears are erect. The Pietrain breed is renowned for its very high yield of lean meat but this is often associated with the presence of the halothane gene for Porcine Stress Syndrome. For this reason the use of purebred Pietrain in British pig production is relatively rare and it is most commonly found in crossbred and synthetic terminal sire lines. Punjabi video song download.
A small number of purebred herds are maintained to supply stock for breeding programmes. DUROC/PIETRAIN BOAR: As the name implies, this is the crossbreeding of a Pure Duroc boar to a Pure Pietrain sow or vice versa, between a Pure Pietrain boar to a Pure Duroc Sow. The result is a cross breed of Duroc/Pietrain or Pietrain/Duroc breed.
In a study of breeding these two breeds in Vietnam, the internet information stated that the result was as stated below: 'The average daily gain, feed conversion ratio and thickness of crossbred sires (Duroc/Pietrain and Pietrain/Duroc) were remarkably improved compared to purebred ones (PP and PD). The semen quality of these crossbred sires was much higher than that of purebred sires. When using these crossbred boars (DP and PD) as terminal sires for meat production, the average daily gain, feed conversion ratio and backfat thickness was improved significantly in fattening pigs during the period of 60 – 180 days old, and their lean meat was also increased by 1.71 – 3.37%. MEISHAN SOW FROM CHINA: This pic of the Meishan Sow from China, based on prior postings, has similar reasons as in the explanation in the Philippines Native Pig and should not be considered a basis for breeding our modern slauther pigs.
Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread? Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D.
And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat. Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir fapper, good day po, baguhan po ako dito, sir pwde ba makahingi ng pics ng dbs mo, plano ko din magstart ng piggery, if ok lang po, pakisend sa [email protected] thank you very much. Fapper wrote: what happened sa last thread?
Anyway hi mga kuyang i am into the last batch of disposal sa mga finishers ko na. While xmas and new year is coming nearer, mas tumataas ang sales ko which is good. Ill post it soon yung out come para may reference yung mga kuyang natin na baguhan at gusto mag start ng ganitong negosyo. Gaya ng paulit ulit na sinasabi ko before, salamat sa PCCARD at dito ako natututo ng lahat ng nalalaman ko as of this time though marami pa akong kulang at dapat malaman sa pag aalaga ng baboy. And of course, special mention to kuyang conrado and kuyang D. And of course, kay LORD at kay kuyang erick sa pag guide sakin on a daily basis. Sa lahat ng mga kuyang dito maraming salamat.
Merry xmas to all and have a blessed new year. More post to come soon. Sir Fapper, Musta na? Sa nakita kong mga pics ng DBS piggery mo, ay nakakatiyak akong complete success yon dahil ginastusan mo talaga at pangmatagalan ang structure, patterned sa mga drawings ni Kuyang C. Ang you are in the right path, just like me, in solving the very low live weight price of the biaheros. I am sure that, that topic is a legitimate extension of the thread 'Our Baboyang Walang Amoy', na dapat ay pagusapan talaga sa thread, dahil pagkatapos natin na mapalaki ang mga baboy using the DBS system, ay talagang malaking problema kung malulugi lang tayo sa pagbenta ng mga baboy.
Sir Fapper, we would appreciate if you can post here all the drawings of your DBS piggery setup because it is the counterpart of the drawings of our Kuyang C who prohibited me to post his drawings in this thread. I shall also post the pics of my DBS setup that I patterned from the You Tube P.I.G.S. I modified the layout in that system to address someone's complaint that the dirty DBS materials might contaminate the feeds that the pigs are eating in the feeding troughs. The resulting modified DBS P.I.G.S. System came out to be a truly low cost pig housing system that is suited for members who have a low budget for their pig housing plans but equally effective din po. I shall also attempt to post the pics of the pigs shown in the 'Gabay Sa Kabuhayan', if I shall be able to recover them, to show the different kinds of pigs, that we are dealing with in the DBS system, for the benefit of the members.
With your drawings/pics and those of mine, I think this thread can be jump started to discuss the two kinds of DBS system that can be expanded to feeds alternatives, the conventional gestating/farrowing pens/DBS farrowing pens, and effective marketing of our products. Merry Christmas po and Happy New Year to all. Sir good day po, pwde ba makahingi ng pics about bds nyo, want to start my own din, kung okey po pwde send sa mail ko, [email protected] thank you very much. Utakpulvoron wrote: yeah, i gathered as much, but we will never truly know the nutritional values the commercial feedmakers use. So the best way to approach your issue, is by adding a balanced ration to the commercial feeds you are giving. In which case para ka narin nagself mix sarili mong feeds. Mahirap rin kasi magformulate not knowing the nutritional value of fresh palm, and kung wala SBM or synthetic lysine mahirap mameet yung proper lysine balance.
A good source of lysine that could be home made is germinated beans such as mongo or togue (raw mat for lumpia na togue). There are several reading materials available in the internet regarding germinated or sprouted mongo beans. You can preserve the sprouted mongo beans by mixing it with molasses on 1:1 ratio, fermented togue. Wagner72 wrote: sir good day po, pwde ba makahingi ng pics about bds nyo, want to start my own din, kung okey po pwde send sa mail ko, [email protected] thank you very much. Sir wagner72, cencia na ngayon lang 12/23 ako nakabalik sa tirahan ko. Since 12/20 kasi ay sinugod ako ng ambulancia sa hospital dahil nagkaroon ako ng heart attack at ngayon lang ako nilabas. Anyway kinompleto ko lang ang descriptions ng bawat pic ng pigs na pinaguusapan natin sa thread na ito at sana ay magpost din ang ibang experienced members natin sa forum.
Anomang tulong galing sa mga kasama natin ay most appreciated po. I will proceed in posting pics and step by step procedures on how I converted my existing concrete structure into a modified DBS pig housing. I would advise you, Sir Wagner, to always come back here to see more postings from our experienced friends so that you will learn more about the DBS setup. However, if you will only visit the thread of 'Tarlac Hog Raisers Forum' and magtiaga kang magbasa from start to finish, ay baka hindi na kelangan magbasa ka pa rito dahil kompleto na ang malalaman mo sa pagbababoyan sa thread na yon.
When I say kompleto ay.as in KOMPLETO talaga. Kagaya ng ibang members ay duon din sa thread na yon ako nagkaroon ng idea na pasukin ang pagbababoyan. Mga kuyang.ok na po yung dbs ko for finisher at may laman na din po lima lang muna hehehe.ang laki nito ay 3x6M.maluwag na maluwag yung lima.ito po ang obserbasyon ko sa mga biik.nung una naming pinakawalan sa dbs tuwang tuwa sila at naglalaro sa ipa area, maliliksi sila at bwelo. Dbs na din yung farrowing pen kaya parang sanay na sila sa ipa. Pero po after mga 4 days parang ayaw na nilang pumunta sa ipa area nila kahit p nga may bagyong dumating at malamig ang panahon e dun pa din sila sa labangan nahihiga.ano po kaya ang problema nito.masyado po bang maiinit ang ipa para sa kanila?
Nung nakuha po namin yung ipa e maulan kaya may mga portion na talagang medyo basa na yung ipa nang ilagay namin sa pen, pero since ayaw na nila puntahan yung ipa area at unte-unti na ding natuyo. Nagsabit na nga po ako ng bunot ng niyog dun sa playground nila pra may mapaglaruan sila, yun saglot lang sila laro tapos sa labangan ulit matutulog kahit pa malamig ang panahon na dapat e lilipat sila sa ipa.wisik naman kami ng hugas bigas kada umaga.dapat po ba talagang soak wet yung ipa ng hugas bigas or dapat dinidilig ng tubig? Isa pa pong obserbasyon na baka ikako kaya sa labangan nahihiga mga biik e dahil sa malamig ang simoy ng hanhin sa ipa area kaya nilagyan ko po kagad ng trapal yung dakong sinisimuyan ng malamig na hangin at pinalitan ko po ng bagong ipa yung ibabaw.pero ganun pa din ayaw nila mamalagi sa ipa gayung hindi naman ganuon kainit ang ipa.nagtate na po ang mga biik ko,nu po kaya mgandang gawin dito. Sana po mapaunlakan nyo ang ktanungan ko.more power ang GOD BLESS.MALIGAYANG PASKO DIN PO. Nhelmercs wrote: mga kuyang.ok na po yung dbs ko for finisher at may laman na din po lima lang muna hehehe.ang laki nito ay 3x6M.maluwag na maluwag yung lima.ito po ang obserbasyon ko sa mga biik.nung una naming pinakawalan sa dbs tuwang tuwa sila at naglalaro sa ipa area, maliliksi sila at bwelo. Dbs na din yung farrowing pen kaya parang sanay na sila sa ipa. Pero po after mga 4 days parang ayaw na nilang pumunta sa ipa area nila kahit p nga may bagyong dumating at malamig ang panahon e dun pa din sila sa labangan nahihiga.ano po kaya ang problema nito.masyado po bang maiinit ang ipa para sa kanila?
Nung nakuha po namin yung ipa e maulan kaya may mga portion na talagang medyo basa na yung ipa nang ilagay namin sa pen, pero since ayaw na nila puntahan yung ipa area at unte-unti na ding natuyo. Nagsabit na nga po ako ng bunot ng niyog dun sa playground nila pra may mapaglaruan sila, yun saglot lang sila laro tapos sa labangan ulit matutulog kahit pa malamig ang panahon na dapat e lilipat sila sa ipa.wisik naman kami ng hugas bigas kada umaga.dapat po ba talagang soak wet yung ipa ng hugas bigas or dapat dinidilig ng tubig? Isa pa pong obserbasyon na baka ikako kaya sa labangan nahihiga mga biik e dahil sa malamig ang simoy ng hanhin sa ipa area kaya nilagyan ko po kagad ng trapal yung dakong sinisimuyan ng malamig na hangin at pinalitan ko po ng bagong ipa yung ibabaw.pero ganun pa din ayaw nila mamalagi sa ipa gayung hindi naman ganuon kainit ang ipa.nagtate na po ang mga biik ko,nu po kaya mgandang gawin dito. Sana po mapaunlakan nyo ang ktanungan ko.more power ang GOD BLESS.MALIGAYANG PASKO DIN PO.
Sir nhelmercs, Kung hindi ako nagkakamali ay ito ang pic ng DBS mo, paki confirm lang po: Ito po ang mga napansin ko sa setup ng DBS mo: 1. Ang labangan (pakainan or feeding troughs) ay walang rebar dividers na 8' apart na dapat ay makapasok lang ang ulo ng biik para kumain. Dahil dito, pag oras ng pagkain ay nakakapasok ang buong katawan nila sa loob ng labangan at duon na pati sila tumatae, umiihi, nagpapahinga at magloblob.
Ito marahil ang dahilan kaya sila nagtatae na dahil contaminated na ang feeding troughs ng kanilang tae at ihi. Kahit linisin mo ang loob ng labangan ay may mga bad bacteria na ang labangan na puedeng pagmulan ng sakit that your eyes can not see. Wala pa akong masyadong experience, pero palagay ko patingnan mo na sa vet ang mga biik mo bago lumala ang pagtatae nila. Ang cement flooring sa harap ng labangan or feeding troughs (PAHINGAHAN) ay dapat ipantay mo sa hollow block edge ng pool, para pagnaglinis ay deretso agad sa loob ng pool area ang maruming tubig. Magtambak ka lang ng mga bato bato bago ka magbuhos sa cement flooring para manipis na lang ang concrete at menos ka sa gastos sa concrete mix.
Ang pool ay dapat may butas sa gilid ng wall para duon lalabas ang mga maruming tubig tuwing maglilinis. Araw araw ang paglinis at dapat ang butas ay may pasak na pvc pipe sa labas na paitaas ang kadugtong para pag nakataas ay puede mong punuin ng tubig ang pool pero hindi tatagas sa open canal sa labas. Pag ibinaba mo naman ang pvc pipe extension sa labas ay saka lang aawas ang tubig papunta sa open canal sa labas. Ang lahat ng maruming tubig na aawas sa open canal sa labas ay dapat deretso na sa septic tank na gagawin mo kadugtong ng open canal sa labas ng wall.
Pag may nakita kang solid na mga tae sa DBS area (pahingahan at laruan), or sa loob ng pool or sa ibabaw ng concrete flooring (pahingahan), damputin mo ng dash pan at itapon sa labas sa compost pile para don mainitan at later ay maging fertilizer. In the meantime ay huwag ka na munang magpakain sa labangan. Maglagay ka na lang muna ng conventional na pakainan sa concrete cement flooring para maiwasan ang contamination ng feeds. Ang conventional pakainan ay dapat may divider din para hindi sila makapasok sa loob. Hindi pa lang siguro sanay sa DBS area ang mga biik mo.
Besides, bukod sa DBS area ay meron pa silang 3 napupuntahan lugar na pahingahan, which were the labangan na may pagkain, concrete cement flooring na normal na pahingahan din ng mga biik, at ang pool na normal ding gusto nilang puntahan at paglaruan. Ang importante ay gamutin mo ang pagtatae nila para maging healthy sila.
Paglaki nila ay masasanay din sila sa DBS area. Hope this helps. I stand to be corrected po. Sir Wagner72, Ito po ang pics ng mga tanim na kinakain ng mga baboy: 1. Indigofera: 2. Flemengia: 3. Madre de Agua: 5.
Oil Palm tree seedlings: Marami na akong tanim na Madre de Agua sa farm ko at may pakinabang na rin sa merienda ng mga baboy. Meron na rin akong tanim na 100 Oil Palm Tree seedlings sa buong paligid ng farm ko and I expect them to start bearing fruits for the pigs 18 months from now.
I am arranging to buy 50 seedlings of nos. 1, 2 and 3 para itanim ko pa sa paligid ng farm. As usual I am always looking for alternative plants that can reduce my feed cost. Mga Kuyang, Ito ang design ng DBS farrowing pens ni Sir Eioz. So far ito ang pinaggayahan ng DBS farrowing pens ko, ni nhelmercs, at ni Sir Kenbats: Pic no.
2: Ito naman ang farrowing pens ko na ginaya ko sa design ni Sir Eioz, although hindi namin nakopya eksakto dahil hindi pa sanay magwelding ang farm worker ko: Ito naman ang farrowing pens ni Sir Kenbats, also patterned after Sir Eioz's design with some modifications. According to Kenneth, wala daw silang mortality sa design na ito. Lalagyan daw nia ng steel railings ang paligid na bakod dahil mababa daw at nakakatalon na sa kabila ang mga biik.
So far, Sir Kenbats and nhelmercs are attesting that this design of Eioz of the DBS farrowing pen were proven effective. To those who wants to fabricate an auto feeder, here are some pics that can help: 1. My auto feeder in action. Sir Wintuha's welder fabricated this for me and I can have it duplicated anytime now. BTW, the 15-capacity P.I.G.S. Ay gumastos lang ako ng P22,000 by using mumurahin na materiales.
The auto feeder assembled: 3. The auto feeder disassembled, from left to right.a) the inverted cone on top of the tire, b) the big cyclone tank or 'feed holder', c) the small round cylinder or 'feed outlet' with the G.I. Pipe inside it. Note: Yong pong malaking tanke ay water tank at hindi po part ng auto feeder: 4. Big cyclone tank or 'feed holder' about 15” in diameter, with a cone shape G.I. Sheet welded at the bottom also.
This is fixed on top of the 'cylinder/feed outlet' with paddle, which is the movable part: 5. The inverted cone G.I.Sheet gauge 16 welded to the tire rim that serves as the base of the cylinder for easy movement by the pigs. Sa ibaba po ay ang tire or goma ng truck, to serve as the base of the tire rim where the inverted cone G.I. Sheet is to be welded to serve as the base of the cylinder/feed outlet. Note also that a 1” washer is welded on top of the inverted cone to serve as clearance of the bottom of the cylinder/feed outlet where the feed come out once the pig rotates or move upward the cylinder. The 1” washer can be a 'cut portion' of a G.I.
Pipe and it can be made shorter or longer than 1” depending on the desired 'feed clearance': 6. The small round cylinder or 'feed outlet', that is 1 foot height and 7.5” in diameter with paddle made of corrugated bar 9mm diameter (“4” shape for easy movement or “ungkal” by the pigs): 7. Front to rear. Pipe, b)Feed Outlet or big cyclone tank, and c) Feed Holder or small round cylinder.
Wagner72, ito na ang request mo. Dito ko na nilagay para makita din ng iba. Actually dito ko lang nakuha ang idea ng P.I.G.S.
Please click on the link. I just modified the layout inside at pinagitna ko ang pool sa feeding troughs to separate the feeding troughs from the DBS area. Sa ganon, ay dadaan muna ang mga baboy sa pool bago makarating sa feeding troughs pag kakain na.
Malilinis ang mga paa nila pagdaan sa pool at maiwasan ang contamination ng feeds. Posting pics of how I built my modified P.I.G.S. (Profitable Indigenous Growing System in You Tube) pig housing in my farm. The 20-capacity P.I.G.S. Was completed on June 30, 2011 and we successfully raised 15 piglets to maturity in it without any problem.
Total cost of the P.I.G.S. Ay P22K, which is suited for backyard farmers that have low budget. The framings are made of bamboos that my farm workers harvested in the forest for free. Naglagay lang sila ng konting hollow block walls sa existing cement rik-rap ng garden plot at doon ibinaon ang mga bamboo posts: 2. Close-up ng bamboo framings: 3. Nagkahugis na ang P.I.G.S. Nilagyan nila ng bubong agad para hindi sila naarawan pagtrabaho sa loob.
Naghukay ng 1 meter lalim sa lupa: 5. Naglalagay ng bato bato bago magbuhos ng concrete mix para makatipid sa concrete mix. Hindi naman kasi masyado mabigat ang mga baboy kaya kahit manipis lang ang concrete mix ay puede na: 6. Bago magbuhos ay nilagyan ng aggregate ang ibabaw ng mga bato bato. Mapapansin na naglagay na rin ng mga DBS materials sa hinukay na 1 meter lalim sa lupa. Iba ibang layers ng DBS materials and nilagay sa hukay: 7. Tapos na rin ang concrete floor area at magbubuhos na lang sa flooring ng pool: 8.
Nabuhusan na ng concrete mix ang flooring ng pool: 9. Ng matapos na ang plumbing works ay ito na ang hitsura ng P.I.G.S.
Hindi pa nagawa ang open canal at septic tank sa labas: 10. Nilagyan ko ng 15 piglets ang P.I.G.S. Mapapansin na masaya silang naglalaro sa DBS area. Nagtatakbuhan dahil may tumatawag sa kanila para kumain na.: 11.
Sa una ay gamit nila ang auto feeder: 12. Pinakakain din namin sila ng mga dahon ng madre de agua, dahon ng malungay, dahon ng kamote, at mga root crops such as laman ng kamote: 13. Ng lumaki na sila ay masikip na ang auto feeder, kaya pinatangal ko na at sa concrete feeding troughs na sila kumakain. Konti na lang ang natitira sa kanila ngayon dahil ang 4 na babae ay pinili ng vet na gawing gilts at ang iba ay kinakatay namin at binibenta ng retail dahil napakababa ang live weight price. Sir Fapper and mga kuyang, Ilan ang nabenta ninyong baboy ng retail ngayong pasko? Kami ay nakapagkatay lang ng 2 baboy nitong nakaraang bisperas ng pasko. Pati 2 ulo merong bumili.
Malapit na rin kaming magkatay ng paisa isa para sa freezer sa farm dahil parami na ng parami ang bumibili ng frozen meat na mga kapitbahay namin. Pati mga kakilala sa bayan ay may bumibili na rin ng frozen meat. Magkakatay daw uli sila ng 2 baboy bisperas ng New Year. Kasalakuyang nagpapagawa ako ng maliliit na P.I.G.S., 10-capacity each at balak kong lagyan ng mga biik na iba iba ang edad para hindi na ako maubusan ng mga baboy na kakatayin ng paunti-unti. Mukhang mas simple pa ang magalaga na lang ng mga finishing hogs. Here is the pic of 1 of 4 small 10-capacity P.I.G.S.
Ko still under construction. Meron akong 2 pang partitions na lupa pa ang flooring na kadugtong ng DBS farrowing pens ko. Ang size ng 2 partitions ay 12 feet W x 39 feet L each, meron ng NIPA roofing, concrete posts and walls. Kaya pinalagyan ko na lang ng hollow block walls sa gitna ng bawat partitions sa pagitan ng concrete posts para maging 4 na small P.I.G.S. 10-capacity each. Posting pics of my DBS pig housing.
Meron na akong existing structure with NIPA roofing, kaya I just modified it into a DBS pig housing patterned after the design of Kuyang C. Di hamak na low cost compared to Kuyang C's, pero sinunod ko naman ang major specs and I think mine is equally effective. Ang loob ng structure ay lupa kaya cenemento ko na lang at nilagyan ng feeding troughs and plumbing works. Ang loob ang pahingahan at pakainan sa mga baboy.
Ang labas ang open DBS area at open na paliguan ng mga baboy. Construction of the pool area: 3. Binuhusan na ang flooring ng pool: 4. Hinuhukay na ang 1 meter lalim sa lupa para sa DBS area: 5. Naglatag ng mga bato bato at the bottom of the 1 meter lalim na hukay. Dahil nasa labas ang DBS area ay minabuti namin na ang pinakailalim at second layer ay designed as septic tank para mabilis ang seepage ng tubig mula sa ibabaw ng DBS area. Second layer from the bottom ay pinatungan namin ng aggregate na binili namin mula sa mga kumukuha sa ilog.
Tapos pinatungan namin ng mga dinurog na balat ng niyog. Marami sa amin nito at binibigay lang ng libre ng mga gumagawa ng copra. Kung wala sa lugar ninyo ay puedeng wala na rin nito. My mixer mixing the soil, sand and IPA. Then the soil and IPA only 9. After the layers of soil/sand/ipa and soil/IPA and at the very top the layer of IPA only. Finished and ready to use except for minor plumber works.
Nilagyan ko ng 2 gilts and I think they enjoy their outdoor DBS area and pool. Ang 2 gilts sa pic no. Ay nilipat ko na sa DBS farrowing pen sa kabila at itong conventional pen with open DBS area ay ginawa ko na lang community pen ng mga gilts at palakasan ng sow na bagong walay sa mga biik. Dito ko nilipat ang 4 na gilts na pinili ng vet para pagpractisan namin na gawing sow. Mapapansin na maluwag pa sila sa loob. Naglalandi na raw sila pero sabi ng vet ay wala pa sa edad, kaya sa Feb. Or March pa scheduled ang AI nila: 13.
Matapos kumain ay deretso sila sa labas para tumae at umihi duon sa sulok. Tapos ay sa pool at open DBS area para magpahinga.
Dalawa baboy pinakatay ko nuon dec 24 kuyang d. Yun nga lang madami natirang buto buto dahil ang trip ng mga mamimili pala pag christmas ay bbq at puro laman, porkchop at liempo ang gusto nila. Kaya eto puno ng butobuto ang ref namin. Hopefully ma dispose ko rin during the week before new year.
Madami din nagkatay dito sa barangay namin nuon 24 (ang sabi sakin na matador ko 8 heads na baboy ang schedule nya that day including my two) pero madali lang ma dispose. Hindi ko pa nasubukan mag frozen meat pero eto din ang balak ko balang araw.
Pinag aaralan ko pa ang marketing sa pag katay. Mas gugustuhin ko sana mag benta ng liveweight pero kung papatol ako sa ganitong klase ng marketing at sa presyo ng mga biyahero ngayon, ang best possible scenario ay break even lang ako which is not good enough dahil ang tagal matutulog ang pera sa baboy. Atleast sa pakatay mababa na ang 1000 pesos na net profit kahit pa panget o bansot ang baboy pag pinakatay kikita parin ng konti. Ingat lang po sa pautang ang piliin mabuti ang papautangin. Sir Ronski, Palagay ko unti unti ay madedevelop natin ang profitable marketing ng mga baboy natin.
Baboyang Walang Amoy
Si Sir Fapper, balita ko ay ganon na rin ang experience.profitable na rin. I think if there is any requirements from the authorities later on, we can easily comply with them. We can always post here any experience we encountered.good or bad para makapagisip tayo ng solusyon for all members to benefit. So far sa mga pautang namin, nakolekta pa rin namin lahat.
Kasi sa barangay lang namin kami nagbebenta sa ngayon at kilala namin sila lahat. Isa pa ay kababata ko ang barangay captain namin kaya madali ng humingi ng tulong. Sianga pala, bago nabura yong original thread, ay pinaguusapan natin kung puede tayo mamili ng live weight na baboy at alagaan muna natin bago katayin. Palagay ko sa lugar ninyo ay marami ng may DBS kaya madali ka ng makapamili ng live weight basta taasan mo lang ng P5 or P10 per kilo compared sa buying price ng mga biahero.
Pag kinatay mo ay malaki pa rin profit mo at wala ka pang hirap sa pagpalaki ng baboy. In our case na halos lahat ay conventional pens pa rin ang pig housing nila, ay halos pareho lang ang ibebenta namin sa mga binibenta ng lahat sa palengke. Alagan lang namin ng at least 2 weeks para masigurado na healthy at malinis ang mga baboy. Erik0930 wrote: Mga Kuyang, Nagkatay na din kami noong Dec 24, bale 2 baboy ang kinatay namin.naubos naman. Merun pa sa bagong taon naman ung 2 merun pa natitirang 6, Maganda pa din magkatay kaysa ibenta ng liveweight, sa simula lang mahirap pero pag naka establish na ng customer eh maganda ang disposal. Need din ng freezer para sa mga left over para kahit anung oras pwede sila makabili. Pag sunday eh fresh ang karne kinabukasan hanggang sabado eh frozen na.
Halos parepareho pala tayo ng experience nina Sir Ronski. Palagay ko ganon din si Sir Fapper. Erik0930 wrote: Mga Kuyang, Nagkatay na din kami noong Dec 24, bale 2 baboy ang kinatay namin.naubos naman.
Merun pa sa bagong taon naman ung 2 merun pa natitirang 6, Maganda pa din magkatay kaysa ibenta ng liveweight, sa simula lang mahirap pero pag naka establish na ng customer eh maganda ang disposal. Need din ng freezer para sa mga left over para kahit anung oras pwede sila makabili.
Pag sunday eh fresh ang karne kinabukasan hanggang sabado eh frozen na. Halos parepareho pala tayo ng experience nina Sir Ronski. Palagay ko ganon din si Sir Fapper. Sa Bulacan at Zambales ginagawa ko na ito at lagi namang nauubos bukod sa pautang, merun bili ng cash sa amin kc mas mura kaysa palengke.
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Baboyang Walang Amoy Technology
Mga Kuyang and Ateng, baka balak nyong gumamit ng bamboos sa low-cost P.I.G.S. Ninyo ay makakatulong ito in bamboo preservation para maging matibay ang gagamiting bamboos. Methods of Preserving Bamboo Broad Grouping: 1.
Non-chemical or traditional method; 2. Chemical method A.
Non-chemical method: 1. Soaking in running water - culms are submerged in running water as in a river or creek for two to three months, then air-dried. This reduces the starch content of the culms thus improving their resistance to powder post beetles but not to termites or fungi.
Smoking - culms are cut into desired lengths and placed above the kitchen stove until they turn sooty black. The exposure to heat and smoke protects the culms against bio-deterioration. Whitewashing - round or split bamboo is painted with cooked lime to prevent the entry of moisture which favors fungal growth 4. Mud coating - the bamboo culms are coated with mud to prevent beetle harborage. Common Chemical Method: 1.
Non-pressure methods a. Spraying or brushing - Spray or brush the chemical solution on the bamboo culms. This prophylactic treatment has a temporary effect because the penetration of preservatives is very shallow. Soaking - used in treating small pieces of bamboos. Completely submerge the culms pieces in the chemical solution. Halved drum joined end to end or ground pits lined with plastic sheets may be used as treating troughs.
Sap replacement -Let freshly cut culms with branches and leaves still intact, stand in a container with 5 to 10 liters of preservative solution. Through cell respiration and leaf transpiration, the solution is drawn up the stem.
Pressure Method - Dry poles are placed inside a cylinder and the preservative is forced through pressure application. FPRDI has developed a system for chemically treating freshly cut bamboo poles by pressure method using High Pressure Sap Displacement (HPSD) treating equipment Preservative Chemicals: The common chemicals for protecting bamboo culms are Cislin, Fermay Plus, Timbor and CCA Cislin -is a synthetic pyrethroid insecticide which is non-staining, can be easily diluted with water and biodegradable. Recommended for treating bamboo against boring insects at 0.01% level. Recommmended Cislin Treatment Solution: Mix 4 milliliters Cislin with 1 liter of water Farmay Plus- this is broad spectrum fungicide which is effective against molds, staining and decay fungi. Comparable with such insecticides as Cislin and Timbor The recommnded concentration is 0.2% Recommended Farmay Plus treatment solution considers the athmospheric condition during the rainy season, mix 1 part Farmay Plus with 5 parts water.
During the dry season, mix 1 part Farmay Plus with 200 parts water Timbor - This colorless preservative has disodium octaborate tetrahydrate as active ingredient. It is effective against bamboo boring insects at 10% level Timbor is suited for treating bamboo that will be used only indoors because the chemical leaches out when exposed outdoors.
Recommended Timbor treatment solution: Dissolve 1 part Timbor in 10 parts water CCA - Chromated Copper Arsenate - comes in paste form. It is water-borne effective against bamboo boring insects and fungal decay at 5% CCA is comparatively cheaper than the other chemicals but leaves a green coloring on the treated material.
It should be used for furniture or craft products only when green coloring is desired or if these will be stained. Recommended CCA treatment solution: Dissolve 1.0 kg of CCA in 20 liters of water. Treatment Procedure: Cislin and Timbor are insecticides only. To make the treatment solution effective against both insects and fungi, add the recommended concentration of Farmay Plus to either Cislin or Timbor.
Boric acid is also a fungicide which can be mixed with Timbor in a 1:1 proportion. Soak the materials to be protected in the prepared Cislin and Farmay Plus solution for 5 minutes. Brush or spray the solution on the materials. Or, soak the materials in the prepared Timbor-Farmay Plus or Timbor-boric acid solution for 2 hours. Allow to dry in slanting position on supports so bottom ends do not touch the ground.
Or, soak the materials in the prepared CCA solution. The length of soaking time depends on the condition to which the materials will be exposed, namely: Condition of use Soaking Period Indoor 3 days outdoor not in contact with ground 5 days Outdoor in contact with ground 7 days In water/wet 10 days Source: Bamboo Processing Training Manual, Forest Products Research and Development Institute (FPRDI), College Laguna, July 1999. Bamboo Seasoning Bamboo should be dried to the moisture level of the surroundings to remain stable and free of the drying-related defects. Well seasoned bamboo has a number of advantages that include improved strength properties and less likelihood of damaging fungi and insect attack.
Seasoning can be done through natural or artificial means: natural, by air drying; artificial, under controlled conditions or kiln drying. Information on bamboo treatment with Borax and Boric Acid (Shared by Dr. Eric Cleuren) Borax and boric acid are widely recognized as relatively cheap, efficient and less harmful chemicals for treating bamboo (they are not completely harmless and therefore contact with the skin should be avoided during the treatment process).
The extra advantage is that it has a fire-retardant effect on the treated bamboo. METHOD: The most widely used formula is a proportion of 1:1 in a 2% to 5% solution Use dry bamboo and submerge it in 1 kg borax + 1 kg boric acid + 50 l of water. You can also dilute it more (100 l of water) or less (25 l) according to the kind of product and its use, but 50 l is a good average. Both products dilute much better in warm water, so start with a small amount of warm water before adding it to the large bath) Keep the bamboo submerged at least during 24 hours and 48 hours if possible. Dry the bamboo afterwards protected from direct sun light, horizontally (because vertical may enhance the drying process and cause cracks) The solutions can be used several times, but that depends on the starch content of your bamboo. How to know that the solution can be used for another time? Apply Litmus paper before and after the submersion and when the Ph level has changed drastically, it is time to replace the solution.
The prices in the Philippines: 1 kg borax: 40 pesos 1 kg boric acid: 70 pesos. Other pointers in bamboo preservation: Preservation of Bamboo in Service: By Walter Liese (Chair for Wood Biology, Hamburg University, Germany) Abstract: Bamboo culms are an excellent material for countless applications. Their wider use for construction is encouraged by the growing scarcity of timber. Since bamboo has a low natural resistance, protection against biological degradation is of vital importance for long term service. Protective measures without chemicals are preferable, but often limited in their effectiveness.
When using preservatives, the restricted permeability of culm tissue, choice of preservative and treatment method and environmental effects as well as economical aspects have to be considered. Keywords: Bamboo, deterioration, permeability, protection, preservation, preservatives, treatment techniques, environment, economics According to the constitution of the Academy, the phrase 'wood science' covers 'lignified natural materials' of which bamboo is an important component. The Academy Lecture given at the IUFRO World Congress 1986 in Ljubijana deait with 'Research on Bamboo'. On this occasion I want to be more specific with the 'Protection of Bamboo in Service'.
There is no other country in the worid, in which bamboo plays such a major role as a multi-purpose commodity as in China, with a total area of about 4. Ha bamboo forest, a production of 2. Tons shoots, 12 mill. Tons of culms, partly converted in about 200 mills into over 1 millon m3 panels of various products.
Baboyang Walang Amoy Technology
The China bamboo industry contributes about 2. 2 billion USD annually to its economy, and goods for 400 mill. USD are exported. 6 million people are working with bamboo, of which 4. 5 in the forest and 1.
1 million in factories. Therefore bamboo has to be on the agenda of this conference with at least one paper. Bamboo in Service: Among the many uses, bamboo is an important construction material, such as scaffolding, bridges, shelters, towers and for simple and modern engineered structures. Bamboo houses provide homes for a billion people, not only in rural areas, where it is considered as a cheap, replaceable material. Its wider use as a substitute for wood is supported by the increasing scarcity and expense of timber in several bamboo producing countries.
Its wider acceptances however is often hindered due to problems with biological degradation of the raw material, construction components as well as finished products. A wide range of protective procedures, including chemical preservation methods are known, but not regularly applied. The reasons are lack of knowledge about possibilities for bamboo protection, lack of adequate treatment facilities and chemical preservatives, uncertainty about its economics and lack of demand for treated bamboo components. Protection of this versatile material, especially in areas where longer service life is desired, can result in immense social and economical benefits. An increase in bamboo availability would facilitate employment potential, save processing and labor costs, which would otherwise occur due to frequent replacement of degraded bamboo components. In the following only a brief overview about some facts and problems can be presented. Details are given in the 'Bamboo Preservation Compendium' by W.
Kumar, presently as INBAR Technical Report 22 in print. Natural durability: For its utilization bamboo has a few serious obstacles, mainly its low durability against biodegradation and its low penetrability for preservatives.
Bamboo culms do not produce any toxic substances during their lifetime, unlike the heartwood of many trees. In contrast to timber, a bamboo culm consists of about 40% parenchyma cells which are filled with nutritious starch, even in older culms. Only in flowering bamboo, the starch is used up for the seed production. Much belief exists that the cutting around the full moon phase may result in an increased resistance. This is also said for timber but detailed investigations have been unable to substantiate these claims. Starch affects the susceptibility against borers and blue-stain fungi, so that harvesting during or after the rainy season, when starch content is lowest, reduces incipient attack during storage.
The common water-storage of fresh culms has a similar effect, since the starch is degraded, mainly by bac.
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